Tuesday, 9 July 2013

Gauge and general progress.

Found a suitable gauge. Most suitable because its not 1k with the accessories, a la Motgadget.
As much as I like that gauge, just can't do it.

Found a new Acewell gauge I really like.
I will modify it slightly by removing the buttons from the gauge as I want to use the stater button, that no longer has a starter on the other end, as the "mode/scroll" button. I guess I'll see how easily it comes apart first.

Good gauge, has all the idiot lights required. Comes with the pressure and temperature sensors I think. They sell a fuel sender as well, so I can actually have a real fuel gauge. has built in shift light, lap timers, memory for high temp readings , clock, speedo, all the requirements. The back light flashes at settings for low oil pressure or high oil temperature. many adjustable settings and warnings. Packaged in a CNC'd aluminum anodized housing. Overall seems like a fairly competent, well thought out product from the Chinese or Taiwanese more accurately.





Replaced the stupid stock oil hard line today. Mine was all rusted and pitted and beyond salvation. People want $150+ for a new one, so in my typical wisdom, I sent $200 to Russell instead.
Yes it was more than the NOS piece, but I much prefer the look of the braided steel.

New oil line configuration

Oil line fitting.

Tach drive plug from TC Bros... I think that's where it came from.



Here is the latest mock up. Put the engine back in so we can measure up the top rear engine mounts and front engine mounts. Ignore the headlight shell, it's temporary. I have one 1" or 2" smaller than this. We are going to run a HID bulb in there with high and low beam. Should be plenty bright!





Next... The engine is out again to have the top end put on. The beautiful head with its new 7mm valves, 030 cam, 277 Pamco ignition, new mechanical advance unit... amongst all the other new stuff mentioned in prior posts.

After the top end assembly, we'll put it back in to measure for the top engine mounts and to fit the pipe. 

Ended up with a single 4" SuperTrapp for the muffler. I like them because they are fairly retro and are completely tunable depending on ones mood for noise, or lots of noise. Going to go with a 2 into 1 right hand high pipe design... I think. Debating a "proper" left hand mount in my head amongst myselves.







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3 comments:

  1. Anonymous16 July 2013 at 03:10

    Hi, I really dig what you are doing here. The Russel Oil Lines look very nice, but just a word of caution here. The original oil pipe fitting at the upper case is designed for restricted oil flow to maintain oil pressure for the bottom end. Removing the fitting can starve the bottom end on these motors. I suggest that you have a look at the fitting removed if you still have it to determine what you may need to fab up up to work with your new oils lines and keep your bottom end healthy. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. Cheers, Dan... 71XS1B

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    Replies
    1. Anonymous16 July 2013 at 08:11

      Yes dan, I have made sure the orifice in the -4 fillting at the case matches the diameter of the stock fitting. T least it is very close. I think it is .015" bigger. This may equate to 3-4% more flow to the top end, but should be safe.

      Thanks for the support. I am happy you like what we are doing, I do too:).

      Delete
  2. Unknown9 October 2013 at 06:25

    Hi, do you happen to have all P/N's from Russel for the line assembly ?

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