So...
Made up throttle cables and the clutch cable yesterday.
Was hoping a set of TDM850 throttle cables would fit, but they came up about 1" short.
So we made up a custom throttle cable.
Clutch cable was also custom.
Anyways that sucks as I was hoping the majority of the future replacement parts could be sourced from the Yamaha dealer, but whatever.
Thottle tube end, it all works smooth and is fully adjustable like stock.
Under seat layout of regulator, fuse box, battery, latching relay, RFID receiver and transmitter and the coils. I'll have to make up the seat/electrical pan next week. Thinking I will weld in mounting tabs and make the pan from aluminum. If I do this correctly I can mount the tray in rubber grommets and isolate most of the vibration away from the electrical.
Not 100% behind the RFID ignition yet. I do like it, it's cool not to have keys rattling around. I wired it temporarily and it worked great. Walk up pass the key fob near the receiver and the ignition connects, gauge and light come on and it's ready to fire. My concern is if the battery is drained for some reason, you won't be able to latch the relay with the RFID signal. So my work to make a system that doesn't need a battery to run, is kinda worthless. What i might do is put a ignition key under the seat and wire it in parallel with the RFID. Then the RFID can be overridden if need be.
Lots to finish off. Trying to use Molex sealed connectors everywhere. Should be 100% sealed when done.
Coil position... for now.
Made up throttle cables and the clutch cable yesterday.
Was hoping a set of TDM850 throttle cables would fit, but they came up about 1" short.
So we made up a custom throttle cable.
Clutch cable was also custom.
Anyways that sucks as I was hoping the majority of the future replacement parts could be sourced from the Yamaha dealer, but whatever.
Here is the business end of the new throttle cable.See behind, had to cut off the "Y" spigot from the breather as it interfered with cable routing. Tapped it 1/2 NPT, l have to come up with a breather solution at some point. Ignore the phillips screws on the valve cover, waiting for the studs to show up, then we'll use the proper set up.
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Clutch perch end, Clutch is pretty heavy with the aftermarket springs. Might consider a hydraulic conversion at some point in the future, but for now I'll just have to develop some forearm muscle..
Not 100% behind the RFID ignition yet. I do like it, it's cool not to have keys rattling around. I wired it temporarily and it worked great. Walk up pass the key fob near the receiver and the ignition connects, gauge and light come on and it's ready to fire. My concern is if the battery is drained for some reason, you won't be able to latch the relay with the RFID signal. So my work to make a system that doesn't need a battery to run, is kinda worthless. What i might do is put a ignition key under the seat and wire it in parallel with the RFID. Then the RFID can be overridden if need be.
Lots to finish off. Trying to use Molex sealed connectors everywhere. Should be 100% sealed when done.
Coil position... for now.
Gauge mounted. Need the tether beside it for racing.
Gauge is really sweet. Punched a hole in the starter gear cover plate under the sprocket and put the oil temperature thermocouple there. Really happy with the gauge. Had the starter button hooked up for testing to act as the mode button, worked perfect.
The gauge has the following modes:
- Oil temp
- Oil temp warning light, (settable)
- Air temp
- Volt meter
- Trip meters
- Full fuel gauge (have to put a float in the tank)
- Analog and digital tach
- Digital speedo
- Lap timer
- Odometer
- Ridng timer
- Neutral indicator
- High beam indicator
- Signal indicator, left and right
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